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November 6-8, 2007  |  Exhibit Hall November 7 & 8  |  The Venetian & The Sands Expo  |  Las Vegas, Nevada

[Research Notes]

Xanthines Protect Against Wrinkles

TOKYO—Extracts of cacao bean and cola nut containing polyphenols and xanthine derivatives may prevent UV-induced wrinkle formation, according to a new study from Kose Co. Ltd. (Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2007 Apr-Jun,23(2-3):86-94). Researchers applied plant extracts containing xanthin derivatives or the xanthine derivatives alone to the dorsal skin of hairless mice; the animals were then exposed to UVA radiation for 15 weeks. Topical application of cacao bean or cola nut extract and caffeine, theobromine and theophylline significantly prevented photodamage including wrinkle formation and histological alterations. The xanthines also reduced total hydroxyproline and pepsin-resistant hydroxyproline content, protecting dermal connective tissue and collagen. In addition, the extracts prevented neutrophil infiltration caused by UVA irradiation.


Soy Isoflavone Supplements Benefit Skin

NODA, JAPAN—Consumption of soy isoflavones may improve the skin tone of middle-aged women (J Nutr Sci Vitaminol (Tokyo)). 2007 Feb;53(1):57-62). Twenty-six women in their late 30s and 40s received a test food with 40 mg/d of soy isoflavone aglycones or a placebo food for 12 weeks. At four, eight and 12 weeks, researchers evaluated the extent of linear and fine wrinkles at the lateral angle of the eyes and the wrinkles’ area ratio. The group consuming the soy isoflavones showed a statistically significant improvement in fine wrinkles at week 12 and malar skin elasticity at week eight. No adverse symptoms from soy intake were recorded.


Microemulsions Enhance C, E Delivery

ASKERCEVA, SLOVENIA— Formulators looking to combine water- and fat-soluble antioxidants may wish to turn to gel-like microemulsions (ME) to enhance stability and delivery in skin care formulas (Drug Deliv. 2007 Apr,14(4):235- 45). In a study from the University of Ljubljana, researchers compared o/w, w/o and ME as carrier systems for dermal delivery of vitamins C and E. ME offered the best protection for both vitamins and significantly increased stability of the nutrients. To obtain ME that was appropriate for dermal use, the viscosity was increased via thickening agents, changing the system’s behavior from ideal Newtonian to thixotropic. The addition of thickeners changed the stability of the vitamins slightly; however, they were still protected better than in o/w or w/o solutions.


Almond Oil Blocks Photoaging

NEW DELHI, INDIA—A study out of Hamdard University suggests topical almond oil may prevent structural damage associated with UV irradiation and decelerate the photoaging process. Researchers divided mice into four groups of 20 animals: Group I, control; Group II, almond oil treatment only; Group III, UV radiation; Group IV, UV radiation and almond oil treatment. Group III and IV showed pronounced visible skin changes after 12 weeks of exposure; however, treatment with almond oil reduced the effect of UV light-induced photoaging of the skin. Histopathologic studies also suggested a photoprotective effect of almond oil. The study appeared in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2007 Mar,6(1):14-9).

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